We make a relatively early start out to the less popular, but equally impressive formations at Loch Ard Gorge, the Razorback and London Bridge.
The crowds are a lot smaller, drawn by the 12 Apostles further back, and possibly repelled by the weather conditions. From our point of view the slight haze and mild rainfall only serves to increase the atmosphere of these places.
We visit several more little viewing areas off the main road and then head for Port Fairy. We stop in Warrnambool which is more like a large truck-stop than anything else, but is the best place to stock up with grub and booze before moving on, as we've no idea what the next town is like or what facilities it has. After all the excitement of the Great Ocean Road it appears that most people just hit the highway back to Adelaide or Melbourne.
But we feel a bit more adventurous, or maybe solitude is our main aim.
Port Fairy is like a lot of smallish towns in remoter Victoria. Wide streets, low visibility of inhabitants and a palpable sense of their pasts as frontier towns, ports, or mining sites. Friendly enough but sometimes eerily quiet.
We pull up at the Caledonian Inn and grab a bed for the night, as a change from the van is required.
Monday, 3 November 2008
Port Campbell to Port Fairy
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